The Indonesia archipelago has over 17,000 islands – which can present a challenge when planning a trip. How do we decide which islands to visit on a two-week vacation? I wanted to see Borobudur and Michael wanted to see Gunung Padang – both in Java – great, that’s the first destination. Where to go next? How about Bali for the beaches, temples, scenery, and art? I looked at places to stay in Bali and saw a common theme in hotel reviews and travel blogs. Many said Bali was over touristy and crowded with dirty beaches and bad traffic. I don’t think we would enjoy that. How about Borneo to see orangutans and world heritage sites? That sounds really cool but the remote destinations are better suited for a longer trip. Hey, what about the Komodo dragons – duh – of course we want to see those. Ok, which islands are near Komodo? Hmm, there are several… Ah, I’ve got it – Flores – there’s an airport and several nice hotels – done.
Indonesia Itinerary
Jakarta, Java: rest day and Gunung Padang road trip
Borobudur, Java: Borobudur, Prambanan, and pool time
Labuan Bajo, Flores: island hopping to Komodo and Padar and lots of pool time
Karyamukti, Garut, West Java, Java, Indonesia
Special capital Region of Jakarta, Java, Indonesia
Jakarta: Rest Day & Unpleasant Surprise
After a full day of flying with a connection in Tokyo, we arrived in Jakarta around midnight and headed to the Jakarta Soekarno Hatta Airport. The next morning, I scanned my email while lounging in bed and found an unpleasant surprise. Garuda Indonesia changed the schedule for our Flores – Jakarta flight on the final day of the trip. I booked the flight because it provided five hours to connect to our red eye home. The new departure time was four hours later – four hours. That’s not going to work! So, I spent part of our rest day finding a new flight and cancelling the Garuda Indonesia tickets.
Later that day I received an email from Batik Air with the subject ‘Flight Replacement / Time Change’. The Jakarta – Yogyakarta flight will depart one hour and ten minutes earlier. Getting up early was a bit of a bummer, but not a big deal. I emailed the hotel to provide the new arrival time. The replacement for the Yogyakarta – Jakarta – Flores flight was a big bummer. One flight was cancelled, so they rebooked us on three flights that took a full day of travel (way more travel time than needed). I found a better itinerary and tried to rebook the flight online, but the website would not let me. So I tried to reach the airline on their website and WhatsApp chat, but the wait time was several hours. The only option was to talk to them at the airport before our flight to Yogyakarta.
Gunung Padang Road Trip
Gunung Padang is a megalithic site on an extinct volcano in Karyamukti, Java. There is disagreement about what it is and when it was built. Some say it is the oldest pyramid in the world; others disagree. This journal article, Geo-archaeological prospecting of Gunung Padang buried prehistoric pyramid in West Java, Indonesia was published in 2023 and retracted the following year.
Whatever its origins and purpose, Michael was very interested in visiting Gunung Padang. I was interested, but not enough for a long road trip (previous visitors reported drive times of three – four hours each way from Jakarta). Michael found a company that does private day tours, Java Private Tour. I didn’t want to disappoint him (ok – or miss out) so I decided to go. The drive ended up taking five hours each way. It’s a good thing we traveled comfortably in style. Michael said he booked an ‘upgraded vehicle’, but I couldn’t have imagined the fancy van that picked us up. The ten-passenger van had airplane style reclining seats with remote control settings, footrests, and individual air conditioning; and a wide screen TV with internet and karaoke.
I was still a little worked up about the flight issues the previous day and my stomach wasn’t feeling great. When we made a rest stop at a gas station our tour guide Ridwan pointed out a small bottle of eucalyptus oil and said they use it for medicinal purposes, including an upset stomach. I gave it a try – and it helped.
As we approached the entrance to Gunung Padang, we saw a field of recently harvested robusta coffee beans. Ridwan explained that Indonesia is trying to get UNESCO World Heritage status for Gunung Padang, but it needs to be explored more. I suspect there needs to be consensus among the experts about its history. They are also trying to attract more visitors and make it easier to access by opening hotels nearby. One company is building a hotel in view of Gunung Padang, and a homestay by the entrance that closed during the pandemic is for sale.
At Gunung Padang, we met local guide Pak Nanang. We started at a small well that is believed to contain holy water then climbed 378 steps to reach the volcanic stones on five terraces. Over the years, people have come to Gunung Padang to meditate and pray and have given the stones their own meaning. Pak pointed out indentations in stones that resembled various shapes like a sword, paw, and foot. Some stones make a distinctive tone when struck.
The second terrace has a great lookout area which Pak explained was a holy spot, so we had to take off our shoes before entering. There’s an arrangement of stones on the fifth terrace (top level) where people go to pray.
After exploring the area, we had lunch on the top terrace. Then, you guessed it, we walked down the 378 steps and set off on the long drive back to Jakarta in the fancy van. We put Archer on TV, reclined the seats, and snoozed (no, we did not sing karaoke).
Borobudur
Borobudur is a village in central Java and an 8th century Buddhist temple – the largest in the world.
After an easy one-hour flight from Jakarta to Yogyakarta we were met by a driver for a one-and-a-half-hour ride to Borobudur. Before leaving the airport, we went to the airline counter to get a better flight to Flores. The airline rebooked us on a more direct itinerary but said we could not pick seats until 24 hours before the flight.
The plan for the next four days was to visit Borobudur temple and Prambanan temple and relax in our wonderful villa at the Plataran Hotel.
As we settled in on the first night, I glanced outside and saw a magnificent strawberry moon. I went to the backyard as the evening call to prayer started.
Borobudur Temple
I became interested in Buddhist monuments after visiting northern Thailand on the world trip. One day I saw an arial photo of the magnificent UNESCO world heritage site Borobudur and knew I wanted to visit.
We arranged transportation and tickets to Borobudur temple with the hotel. Ekko took us on a ten-minute drive then we changed into upanat sandals and met our guide – Makki. To protect the structure, all visitors must wear sandals made from pandan leaves and coconut shells.
Borobudur temple has 5 terraces with 72 stupas and 432 Buddha statues. When you peek inside each stupa, you see a headless statue. The bas reliefs on the walls tell stories of Buddha’s life and teachings. The top level has a giant stupa and is only accessible at designated times to people who come to pray.
On the way back to the visitor center we heard the afternoon call to prayer. I mentioned to Makki that we don’t hear calls to prayer at home, and I find it interesting. He said he sang the call to prayer before work that day.
Read all about Borobudur Temple
Prambanan Temple Compound
Prambanan is a 10th century Hindu temple compound with 240 temples – many in ruins. The three largest structures are dedicated to Brahma, Shiva, and Vishnu. In front of each is a smaller structure for their animal protectors: a swan, bull, and Garuda.
We arranged a half day tour to Prambanan with the hotel. During the one and a half hour drive we passed villages and fields of chili, peanuts, and rice. At the temple, we met our guide Eddy who explained the Ramayana epic depicted on the bas reliefs as we explored the compound. We climbed the narrow steps and entered the large structures and saw statues of the deities.
There were several school groups visiting that day. A girl came up to me and said, ‘Sister, can we take a photo?’ I was surprised but said sure and was surrounded by a group of smiling girls. By the end of the day, I took a photo with two additional groups of girls.
Read all about Prambanan Temple
Relaxing at the Plataran Resort
In between temple excursions, we relaxed and enjoyed our villa. We slept in, had leisurely breakfasts in the room, and cooled off in the pool while observing the sights and sounds. One day we watched a small chameleon hanging out at the top of the tree. One afternoon, we watched the rain. The backyard was truly special and one of our favorite hotel spaces. We ventured out a few times to try the hotel’s restaurant and bar and watch an evening fire dance show.
The day before the flight to Flores, I tried to select our seats but had the same challenge reaching the airline. I asked the hotel to help, and they made a great effort but were also unable to reach anyone.
Flores Island
After a week in Java, it was off to our final destination – the island of Flores.
We got up super early for the one-and-a-half-hour drive back to Yogyakarta airport. The hotel packed to-go breakfasts with large bottles of fresh squeezed juice.
We flew to Bali and had a short layover before the flight to Flores. The layover turned out to be shorter than I thought because Bali is one hour later than Jakarta. It’s a good thing I looked at a clock in the airport and noticed the time difference (lesson learned – don’t assume).
On arrival in Labuan Bajo, we were surprised to be met at the jetway by hotel staff who said, have a seat – we will get your bags from the carousel – cool. After a ten-minute drive we were welcomed at the Ta’aktana with a cool drink and handmade bracelet. Our butler Rini drove us through the resort to our home for the next six days. Although I knew what the room looked like from the website photos, when we entered the villa, I said wow!
In the evening, we headed to the bar for the sunset ritual – a glass of local spirits and hors d’oeuvres to say farewell to the day.
Our plan for the week: go island-hopping one day and spend the rest of the time chilling at the resort. Flores is a large island and there are things to see like rangko cave, traditional villages, and volcano hikes. But due to the size of the island, most sights were several hours away, and we were not keen to do any more road trips.
Island Hopping: Padar and Komodo
When we checked in to the hotel, we asked Rini if she could arrange a private tour to Komodo National Park. She said yes.
A few days later, we headed to the hotel dock for a boat charter with food and drinks aboard the Tiga Dua, accompanied by hotel guide Vincent.
The first stop was Padar Island for a scenic hike. I was surprised to see deer hanging out on the beach. The hike to the top was a bit strenuous – and crowded. But it was worth it because the view was gorgeous. It took a while to get a good photo because many people were posing – some even had props.
Next it was off to Komodo Island to see the dragons. We met our guide and headed out to find the beasties. I got a little overheated at Padar Island and brought an umbrella from the boat for shade. Vincent kindly offered to hold it and stood behind me whenever we were in the sun. During our walk around the island, we saw three adults on the ground and one baby in a tree. We learned that the babies spend the first few years of life in the trees because the other dragons, including their mother, will eat them. Oh my.
Stomachs grumbling, we headed to the pink sand beach for lunch. The boat went close to shore – Vincent jumped out and set up a picnic below a large shade tree. After lunch we strolled in crystal clear water and checked out the bright pink coral.
The final location was Manta Point to see – you guessed it – mantas. Michael put on his snorkel gear and jumped in the water with Vincent. He got some great photos of the big, beautiful creatures.
On the way back to the hotel, I saw a small rainbow floating on the waves alongside the boat. This day happened to be my birthday, and I got the feeling it was my mom saying ‘hiya – I am with you on this special day’.
When we returned to the hotel, there was a birthday surprise: flowers and balloons, a beautiful towel sculpture on the bed, and birthday goodie. The staff even sang happy birthday. Rini stopped by later with something to refresh us after the long day: coconut water, milk, and yummy ginger candies.
Relaxing at Ta’aktana
On the first day we walked around and viewed the beautiful art. Then we stopped by the awesome gym and lap pool and had a chat with the attendant. Hmmm – we typically don’t exercise on holiday, but the gym is so nice, and we will have a lot of free time, so yeah, let’s go to the gym a few times. Do you think we made it back to the gym?
Did I mention we spent a lot of time hanging out in our wonderful pool?
Just like at the Plataran Hotel, we had most meals in our villa, but we did go out a few times. On a rainy evening, we went to the overwater bar and were greeted with chilled jasmine scented towels. After settling into the comfy lounge chairs overlooking the water we tried some interesting cocktails and snacks. My first drink was blue (for the water) with coconut foam (for the waves).
Our stay included a complimentary afternoon tea. I could not have imagined what marvelous goodies awaited us. My favorite was a trio of porridges: bubur ketan hitam (black rice porridge), bubur sumsum (sticky rice porridge), and bubur mutiara (pearl porridge). You put a little of each in a bowl and then pour coconut milk / brown sugar on top. Very yummy!
On the final night there was a BBQ dinner on the beach. The meal started with delicious tom yum soup followed by lots of fresh local seafood.
Volcanic Eruption
One morning I saw a news report about a volcano eruption causing Bali flight cancellations. Hmmm – we are not far from Bali – I wonder where the volcano is. I checked online and saw that Mount Lewotobi Laki Laki is on the east end of Flores. Wait – we are in Flores. We didn’t see a sign of the volcano because we were 373 miles away on the west end of the island- whew.
Going Home
When it was time to go home, I didn’t want to leave. Rini brought us a refreshing farewell beverage of fresh coconut water before our late checkout for the flight to Jakarta.
The Flores airport was crowded, unorganized, and a bit chaotic. After finally making it to the gate, we heard the first bad news of the day – the flight was delayed 50 minutes. Ok – we will still have two hours in Jakarta to retrieve the bags and check in for the flight home.
After the two-hour flight, we went to baggage claim and waited – and waited – and waited 30 minutes for our bags. The window to catch the flight home was closing. If we moved fast through the airport, we could make it. But Jakarta airport is big, and by the time we took the sky train to the international terminal we missed the check-in cutoff by five minutes. Japan Airlines was very helpful and found a flight on China Airlines the following afternoon. Back to the Sheraton we went…
We checked in to the hotel around 10:30 PM tired and sweaty to a nice surprise – an upgraded suite with juice and munchies waiting.
While getting ready the next morning, I listened to a TV show about the 2004 tsunami in Banda Aceh, Sumatra: The Waves That Changed Us. I took notice of a young woman, Qurrata Ayun, who was eight when the tsunami killed her parents and sister. Qurrata moved in with her aunt, grew up, and opened a coffee shop. It isn’t just any coffee shop – it’s unique. In conservative Banda Aceh, most coffee shops are owned and visited by men. Qurrata’s shop employs women and is a space where women go to relax and socialize. I left for the airport feeling inspired by this resilient and empowering Indonesian woman.
Where We Stayed
Although we had bad luck with the domestic flights, we had a great experience at each hotel. The staff were friendly, helpful and genuinely interested in making our stay enjoyable.
Sheraton Jakarta Soekarno Hatta Airport
Sheraton Jakarta Soekarno Hatta Airport
Plataran Borobudur Resort
Ta’aktana
Ta’aktana
Indonesia Travel Tips
If you are planning a trip to Indonesia, here are a few tips that may be helpful.
- If you don’t already have it, download and create a WhatsApp account. Many hotels and transportation companies use the app to communicate. We found it to be a very effective way to reach people (except the airlines).
- If your country requires a tourist visa, bring cash to pay for the visa at the airport. When we were there, they accepted Indonesian rupiah and US dollars.
- Immigration at Jakarta airport was quick and efficient. There were self-serve automated gates. But be sure to go to a kiosk first to complete the customs form and get a QR code.
- If you book any domestic flights, expect schedule changes and / or flight cancellations.
- If you are looking to arrange a private day tour in Java or Bali, we had a great experience with Java Private Tour.
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